Shoemaking



March 46, A- COCOZELLA 2,370,937

SHOEMAKING Filed Sept.4 19, 1944 Iza/enzow:

2235// fzz: rneys u sHoEMAKlNG i 'dnthony Cocozella', Lynn, lMassi` l I. Y 1 Application' september 19, 19344, ks,eirial'No.-554,797 'r .1i claim" 1L 12-1142' f th-strain of wearv is toi come,`is secured to the? stiiinsole by a second lineof stitchingv and'lther` binding strip is adequately secured'by 'the-same? y line' of stitching.' Infeach Aof these 'steps' thel 'operator'has to handle only a'sing'lev looseipief'ze,A that isto'say, the upper-in carrying outtheflrst step,fa`nd ithebinding strip in carrying out-thel second step. By this simplication of =the'-.at

This invention consists in an "improvdprocess of manufacturing shoes of the platform Itype. Shoes of this type are now in demand but as heretofore vconstructed. have required a'gre'at 'deal of 'special' and highly'skilled Workl which' has necessarily been reflected in the cost of the nished shoes., The object vof the present in'venL-ll tion is so, to arrange and divide the various shoemaking operations that each lone may be carried out rapidly, without the exercise 'of ekceptional' skill, and so 'that the final 'result ofv a series ofv vsimple steps will be represented by afshoejof` high Vqlviality, appearance.l l

A shoe made in sturdyV structure and improved a accordance with `the process of my invention is' characterized ,by a binding strip which maybe of leatheror'of ornamental fabric, attached at one `edge to the`r edge of aVs'tiif and substantial'insole orplatform sole'. f' The binding strip is wrapped'arou'nd the'outer'edg'e of thislstiff insole and secured in place with its inturned edge completely sealed beneath the outsole. fThe out-tumed margin of the `'upper is also securedto the insole. The process of my"A 'invention isdirected more especially to the vccfiperating steps bywhich the Vupper and 4"thebinding strip arc secured in the organiiatioriofA the shoe. Iliavev discovered that the improvedfand'valuable ref suits sought Vmay lbe "achieved by carrying out three cooperative stepsfas follows: First, the outl `r turned marginal; edgeof Athefupper alone ate*V tachedv to'th marginal. ledgeof'the thiclr'stiii4 insole *by ai line bl'st'itching Vpassing -throughthe' upper' andthe sole in close proximity to the' marginal edge ofthe sole.- Second, thebindingy strip is superposed` above the` attached Aedge-'of the upper', andthe binding Vstrip and upper are simultaneously' attached to] the 'stiirV insole by 'fa secondline of stitching located "slightly" within the rst lin'e ofstitchi'ng; that iste/say, located just inside the line of stitching by which the' mar-v gin of the upper has been attached. Third, while o the last;A the binding s`trip`^is wrapped outwardly and downwardly about the exposed edge of the upper and about the edge of the thick insole and adhesively secured to the bottom of the insole.

In the rst step the operator has merely to bring the edge of the' upper into registration with `the edge of the insole and attach it to the sole by a simple gauged `stitching operation. In the second step the operator` has merely to register one edge of the binding strip with the edge of the insole and the attached edge of the upper and then, by carrying out the second simple gauged stitching operation, the upper, on which taching operation rapid and accurate workfmay be performedfby operatorsfhaving little skill or tion fis thus rendered 'substantially more 'difc'ult While oi'the last/the ikIlSOle `Ifelllainsr Substantially flat' and the wrapping operation isgthus,A

'The employmentI of astil insole of substartVialrv thicknessratherthan a lilexible sockv liningV orY other flexible sole piece vmakes it'possible 'fpor'the' manufacturer to carryout several? Voperatior'is oil" the last which would otherwise require 'the' prese; ence of a last in the shoe. In addition to fading; tatirig`l the wrapping" operation, this procedoref; eliminates'the ,operation` of spotting4 a platforrriv sole on a sock lining because the stitchingpos'i.' tively insures accurate location lof the 'thickjsolef y piece which vconstitutes the platform.4 Further,

itredu'cestlie shoem'aking operations to handling',

oneV thick ,sole -pieceforr platform `instead of tw'o' pieces, viuz.,` @flexible sock liningand afplat+ form. All this is. Iparticularly advantageoumbe'ff cause it reduces the total time f duringr which. the 'last must be tied upgin eachindividualshoef thusfcutting-downthe number of lasts rrequired-K` and i improving the leiiciency 'of the wholev opergf.-

ation.

These and other features of the invention will be best understood and appreciated from the following description of a preferred manner of carryingout my novel process, selected for purposes of illustration and shown inthe accompanying drawing in which:

Fig. 1 is afragmentary view in perspective; partly in` section, illustrating the step of at;l

taching the upper to an insole, y

Fig. 2 is a similar view illustrating the second step of the process, that is to say, the formation ames? or `a stitch line attaching the binding strip and upper to an insole,

Fig. 3 is a similar view showing a portion of` of the nished shoe showing a portion of the shank in section.

In carrying out theprocess of .my inventionlasl, herein illustrated, an-insole'or platform sole or` other. sole piece Illis first selected from any de'- sired insole stockk substantial in thickness andy stiff in-texture, or which may be of ground'cork compositionin sheet form, and lcut or .died out in the proper shape for an insole or platform for the shoe to be manufactured..` The. yinsole.

herein shown is shaped `with a square, 4'cleancut marginal edge. The upper `I I is completed rately according to pattern. The` ii-rst step of theprocess may becarriedout in an .ordinary straight needle sewing, machine .as suggested in Fig.y lwhere the bed I.2 of the machine :supports .thegfsolev :I and a roller gauge I3LIII.guides the marginal edge of the esole I- in a path :beneath the needle'bar I5 zsuoh -thata stitch-line .i6 .is formed parallel `to and closely adjacent to the L marginal ledge of the sole II). This Aline of stitcing passes through the tout-turned marginy y ofthe upper II and through the-full Itlfiviokness oi-.itl-iefsole 5H), as more clearly shown zon .a :largescale .i11Fig. 4.' The edge gauge is rotatablymounted onthe sewing machine bed l2 and cofin-` ppisesa :freely irotatablefroll I3 anda freely ro-` tatable'coneentric .ring III which surrounds the.

rolll I3 and provides .effective gauging surface for this-particularstep of ltheprocess.

In carrying youtvtliesecondvstep of my novel process, fone vedge of `the binding lstrip I1 brought-into registration withthepreviously attached edge of the upper II, the ring I4 is .rc-y moved fromvthe gauge .and the insole II)v advanced-in a .path gauged by .the roller I3, while most convenient time a last will be forcibly serted and .the insole conformedto its cont steps readily followed in the manufacture of such shoes. y Asteel shank piece I9 may be con- Y venexrtly 1located upon theV outer face of thein- Y m as wen s'both stitch unes is' and la,v thus providing the finished ornamental'edge desired l in the shoe. The two lines of stitching are herein shown as. being made of `thread of substantially the same weight, 'but if desired a lighter thread or a longer stitchr may be used in stitching the upper alone to the insole than is used for attaching the binding stripl and the upper in the stitch-line I8. V

Aiast may ybe.insertedm ,theshoe atthi's stage ofyits. manufacture, op somewhat-,Hiaten inl process. However, itv is contemplated' that at sole-I4!y .and rsecured in place extending substantially to the ball line as indicated in Fig. 5, thus "2O with or vWithout a .lining as desired yand cut accu-V permanently maintaining in the shoe bottom the desired .longitudinal arch curvatureoffthe shank.

The shoe iscompleted by. cementing'fan V,out-

thesecond row. of stitches I8 vis formed parallel. -v

to., and slightly within the` previously Vforncied' stitch-'line I6. It will bevunderstood'that since theeffectivediameter of thegauge I3 is. less than' the .effective diameter of' the gauge `I3.-I4, a

wider edge extension is provided beneath` the v needle vbar I5 in carrying out lthe 'secondjs'tep oi'tl'xejprocess thany in carrying out the rst stitching'step.

Having attachedV the upper and-binding strip ,Figsffand-i. In this y'operation'thebindingstrip conceals the rraw 'edge oftheupper-I the lower face of the. insole `position. come,` pletely concealing they inturnedma-rgin of the.

binding :strip .and with. itsl .marginal edge. fiush 'with the vertical walls vformed-.by vthe binding strip. A .sock )lining ymay .be inserted if desired. on thesurface .of vthe, insole. The,- relation oi. the parts in the. .iinished shoe is Well shownain Fig. 5, rand while .the .finished shoe isshownas ybeing.ofthe openxtoestyle, .it willbey understood:v that this is,merely oney example of agreat;ya,` riety-.ofstyles .in ftheproducton of whichmy in- .vention mayv The', Aadvantageously n.tilizeci.

The .sole ,piece .I.0.has been' .herein .referred to, asfan insolesince the upper is..fastened. .to itI and since it `is notsubjected inuse toWear., but it might yaptly .be vtermed .arriidsoleorl a...platform sole...

Havingy thus. .disclosed :invention and de scribedV .in detail .an illustrativeprocess.,.exem-v` new` and desire `to l.semina pnfymg it', Iv claim as byLettersPatent:

n The ,process ofV .platform shoeggwhich includes the steps-ofrst attaching theout-turned margin .upper `tcftliextap face of asti-ii insole...of.substantia1 thicknessgby Avstime-'oiA .stitching .located closely-ladfjacenttofthe marginal edge of -the .sole then .simultaneously.attaching.,the,.

upper andone edgeuof .abindingstrip to th'e,.ixv1. ,v sole. by-asecond line -of v-stitcln'n'gpassing through; -both the upper andbi-nding strip inside thefsaiei,` line. of stitching .rst mentioned, subsequentlywrapping the binding strip'.v Ofvthe last, .about the supenposed edges oi the upper. .and insole, and cementing-,the-bindmg .strip to kvtina-Immaginil 0i 'fthe insole, .thusnclosing .and concealing .both lines. :of 'stitchingsafter .'securingyftherupper in, placelbyfa doubleline"ofstithhnzxy g., 

